PastaWorks
Cheese Primers

From time to time we'll offer descriptions of some of our favorite cheeses.
Parmigiano Reggiano is formed into 80 lb. wheels, with "Parmigiano Reggiano" stamped on the rind. The number of the dairy and the month of production are also stamped on the rind. Production is strictly regulated by law: Reggiano is only made in about 1000 small dairies in the Zona Tipica-in the provinces of Parma, Modena, part of Reggio-Emilia, part of Bologna, and a small part of the Lombardy region's Mantua Province.
It is made from part skim milk and must be aged for 18 to 36 months. The methods of production and level of craftsmanship of Reggiano are unchanged through seven centuries. Because it is artisan made, no two wheels of Reggiano are the same, but all meet the minimum standards established by the Consortium (association of producers).
The flavor is fruity, intense, and concentrated. The texture is creamy and crackly on the tongue. The aroma is fragrant with hints of earth, hay, cream, and fruit. Seasonal variations in flavor are discernable; winter milk cheeses are often leaner in flavor profile while summer milk cheeses are more opulent in flavor reflecting the diversity in the grasses consumed by the cows. The characteristic crackly, crunchy texture is the result of the milk protein breakdown over time.
Typically grated over your favorite pasta dish, Parmigiano Reggiano is also wonderful by itself, especially as an after-dinner course.
Featured Cheeses
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BethmaleProduced in the village of the same name, Bethmale, also sometimes known as Tomme de Couserans, is the best known of the traditional cow's milk cheeses from the Pyrénées.
The texture of Bethmale is semisoft, supple and yielding, and cheeses are covered with a dense beige rind. The interior paste varies from ivory-white through to buttery-yellow depending on the season, and is dotted with small holes and slits. Aromas are pleasantly pungent, smelling of damp cellar and earth. Flavors are mild, very rich, milky and buttery with notes of grass, wood and mushrooms. $21 per lb
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Big Ed'sButtery and bold flavored raw cow milk cheese from Wisconsin.
$15 per pound
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Buenalba with RosemaryFrom Castilla Vieja, Leon, Buenalba com Romero is a raw milk sheep cheese infued with rosemary. Savory, tangy flavors that match well with Olympic Provisions chorizo and a glass of Rioja.
$22 per lb
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Cabra al RomeroJust arrives, this raw milk goat cheese from Toledo is made with vegetable rennet. The curds are mixed with red wine prior to pressing, giving the finished cheese a great violet hued color.
$21 per lb
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Cabra con PimentonFrom the plain where it doesn't really rain, and where the windmills now are wind turbines adding energy to Spain's electrical grid, Cabra con Pimenton is a raw goat milk cheese flavored and colored with Spanish paprika (pimenton). Medium sharp. Pair with a glass of Txakoli for a late afternoon, early evening snack.
$20 per lb
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CertouxTangy, complex, lingering bold finish. Hand-crafted small batch goat cheese from Molalla, Oregon.
$24 per pound
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Echo Mountain Blue80% raw cow milk, 20% raw goat milk, creamy with a sharp finish. From Rogue Creamery.
$16 per pound
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Edel de CleronFor Vacherin lovers, l'Edel de Cleron is the next best thing. Produced in the same part of Eastern France, the French-Comte. Edel de Cleron is a luscious cow's milk cheese, wrapped with a strip of spruce bark around their perimeter to support the cheese, which is runny when ripe.
L'Edel de Cleron, sometimes called faux Vacherin, is a made with pasteurized cow's milk, and has a Camembert-like bloomy rind when young. As it ripens, some tan molds may colonize the surface. The surface should give with gentle pressure, and it has a characteristic earthy, mushroomy aroma. $21 per lb
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Fromager d'AffinoisExceptionally creamy & mellow. Try with fresh berries.
$14 per pound
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Queso LenoraFrom the San Francisco Chronicle's description of this newly arrived Spanish cheese: "Named for León, its home region in Northern Spain, Leonora is a new goat cheese from a small farmstead producer who is just beginning to export to the United States....Made with pasteurized milk from the cheesemaker's own herd, the roughly 4-pound Leonora resembles a large flattened log, or brick, with slightly flared sides. The natural rind exhibits plentiful white and gray mold, producing a coat that looks like the bark of a birch tree."
$22 per lb
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ZamoranoNutty, tangy, sharp but balanced, Zamorano, from Castilla-Leon in north central Spain is perfect with appetizers and a glass of tempranillo based Ribera del Duero or Toro.
$17 per lb.
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